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Sky Ranch Foundation Continues to Aid Troubled Youths

In the past four years, the Sky Ranch Foundation and Sky Ranch for Boys have awarded the Sioux City Iowa-based Sky Ranch Behavioral Services $181,250 in grants.

An independent treatment facility, the organization served as the aftercare center for youth matriculating from Sky Ranch prior to the Ranch being sold in 2011. It has been providing counseling for 32 years to young men and women and their families prior to placement, in an effort to eliminate the need for out-of-home placement.

Further, they reintegrate juveniles returning home from placement, keeping the family intact and ensuring against further involvement in the out-of-home placement system, according to a press release.

Sky Ranch Foundation attributes the success of the Behavioral Services team to their comprehensive and consistent application of services which, in addition to on-call service 365 days a year, including twice weekly problem solving groups covering social and communication skills, anger management techniques, money management, family skill development, sexuality, alcohol and drug awareness prevention and more.

Sky Ranch Foundation is actively seeking other organizations worthy of receiving grants.

If you know of any organization which fits the following criteria, please direct them to send an LOI to George Suttles at George.suttles@ustrust.com:

  1. Focus on troubled youth, ages 11-18
  2. Offer services which prevent youth involvement in the criminal justice system
  3. Provide long-term rehabilitation in a residential or alternate setting
  4. Offer comprehensive support services to youth including education, job training, enrichment activities, counseling and case management.

More information is available at skyranchfoundation.org/grants/funding-guidelines/

Formed in 1961, Sky Ranch Foundation is a tax-exempt charitable organization committed to identifying and offering grants to efficient and effective programs focused on improving the quality of help available to these youth. The foundation is governed by a board of directors comprised mainly of active and retired members of the beverage alcohol industry. The Foundation’s funds have come largely from individuals and companies associated with the beer, wine and spirits industries and reflects the industry’s great concern and commitment for at-risk youth.

HandCraft Pinot Grigio, Malbec

HandCraft Wines has unveiled two new additions to its lineup: HandCraft Pinot Grigio and HandCraft Malbec.

HandCraft Pinot Grigio, an Italian varietal grown in California, blends the best of both worlds with crisp acidity and bright fruit flavors, according to the company. HandCraft Malbec, also grown in California, is a new item in response to growing consumer demand.

HandCraft 2014 Pinot Grigio, featuring a convenient screwcap, and HandCraft 2013 Malbec are both now available for distribution nationwide at a suggested retail price of $11.99.

Off the Beaten Path

In 2011, acclaimed sommelier Rajat Parr, partner and proprietor of Domaine de la Côte and Sandhi in Santa Barbara’s Sta. Rita Hills, co-founded In Pursuit of Balance, a non-profit organization that puts the spotlight on California-made Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The response has been strong.

With 33 well-regarded wineries joining In Pursuit of Balance (such as Au Bon Climat, Flowers and Twomey), and 2015 events spanning New York, San Francisco, Houston, Osaka and Tokyo, there is undoubtedly a desire among industry influencers to illuminate wines that are balanced, non-manipulated and redolent of California’s unique and motley terroirs. The rich, powerful Cabernet Sauvignon that stole the show at the 1976 Judgment of Paris may have long defined the aggressive style of winemaking favored by Napa Valley behemoths, but today, California, the country’s largest producer of wine, is fast becoming known for leaner, refined expressions made outside of the saturated epicenter of fabled tasting rooms.

Changing Perceptions

“The overall perception here is that the California wine pendulum is swinging back towards more restrained and balanced wines,” says Jennifer DiDomizio, who runs the shop California Wine Merchants with Taylor Senatore in New York’s Financial District. “In the rest of the country, I don’t think it’s changed much from the idea that California wines are generally big, bold and in-your-face. In many other states, the selection of California wines is more homogenized and includes less choice from larger scale wineries.”

A visit to California in the 1980s and 1990s would have assured copious glasses of oak-forward Chardonnay and tannic Cabernet Sauvignon churned out by large-volume producers, the Bordeaux varietals and luxurious styles dominating the scene. Of course, the predilection for these wines remains strong. They are very much a thriving component of California’s winemaking tradition, forever entrenched in its culture.

Then the other trends started to emerge: the Rhone Rangers championing grape varieties from the South of France, the planting of “Cal-Ital” grapes, the ascension of well-hidden AVAs, and the rise of indie producers trying to compete with the big guys’ impressive marketing muscles by flexing their own quality wines made without fanfare.

In particular, California Wine Merchants’ stock revolves around bottles from such small wineries, so DiDomizio says hand selling remains an important approach for the shop.

“We sell a good deal from Matthiasson, Red Car, Robert Sinskey, Banshee and Rivers Marie,” she says. “Red blends are exceedingly popular right now, from Rhone and Cabernet to ‘kitchen sink’ blends that include more than a handful of grape varieties. People don’t seem to care about the specific grapes, as long as the wine tastes good. Otherwise, Pinot Noir remains a great seller and Syrah is making a bit of a comeback.”

Although California Wine Merchants’ customers are knowledgeable and seek out the unconventional, DiDomizio says tastings, and specific tasting notes drafted for each bottle, are a vital part of educating all those curious folks who wander inside.

“The point-of-sale notes convey the story behind the winery and include our impressions of the wine when we tasted it,” she adds. “We provide our comments in lieu of critics’ notes or scores. Sharing with our customers which wines and producers we are excited about gets them excited, too.”

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Emerging AVAs

Propelling this interest is the advent of AVAs beyond the North Coast’s most-celebrated winemaking regions. There are over 200 of them spread throughout California. One by one, we’ve seen offbeat locales like Paso Robles, Lodi, Monterey and Santa Cruz get the limelight for their less-famous-but-stellar wines, often made on family-owned estates.

Dennis Carroll, CEO of Wine Hooligans, a brand development company that works with such California wineries as Cycles Gladiator, Broadside, Robert Goyette, Stephen Vincent and Sea Monster, says that “the awareness of upcoming AVAs always creates excitement at the distributor and trade levels. This makes telling your story easier to a receptive audience.”

One caveat he warns of, however: “As popularity increases, wine becomes harder to source and typically more expensive. Keeping your cost and quality consistent becomes a challenge.”

DiDomizio says her customers are increasingly growing familiar with these different AVAs, especially cool-climate ones like Sta. Rita Hills and Anderson Valley. These areas, along with Sonoma Mountain and Sonoma Coast, are also popular at Redwood City, CA-based K&L Wine Merchants.

“Customers are definitely seeking out wines which are not of the old norm,” explains K&L’s proprietor, Eric Story. “They are looking for varietals that come from growing zones, which benefit and produce wines with better balance and character. Customers have become very savvy and are very interested in terroir and microclimates. There is a shift away from the ‘corporate’ style to more of a demand for wines of individuality.”

“Pinot Noir, I think, is the leader of this movement with Chardonnay right behind,” Story adds. “But varietals like Semillon, Mouverdre, Carignan and even Sauvignon Blanc are being produced with this same mindset, and some really fun wines are out there.”

Interest in wines from the Anderson Valley AVA — the northernmost and coolest-climate winegrowing region in the state — has significantly spiked, as in the case of FEL Wines’ Savoy Vineyard.

“It is a new frontier for California Pinot Noir winemaking. People who grow Pinot Noir are attracted to planting vines on the edge of where you can farm successfully, and the Anderson Valley is pushing that to the limit,” says FEL’s winemaker, Ryan Hodgins. “With the risk of early harvest and lots of rain comes the benefit of being able to produce Pinot Noir that is reflective of its climate in an elegant style.”

“My goal as a winemaker is to make wines that are reflective of a place and vintage,” Hodgins adds. “In more recent years, people have embraced elegance and subtlety in winemaking, which is well-suited to the Anderson Valley, and is one of the reasons the AVA is considered to be on the rise.”

With an SRP of $38, it’s clear that FEL Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is not intended as an everyday table wine. Instead, it connotes a certain quality attached to special occasions, in turn adding value to the AVA’s overall burgeoning reputation.

Obscure No More

Hodgins’ dedication to capturing locality bodes well for even-more obscure AVAs, like Coombsville, which was first established in 2011. It is home to the Nathan Coombs Estate, the former Tourmaline Vineyard that has since been 
acquired by Sebastopol’s Paul Hobbs Winery, which is known for both its widely distributed Napa Valley and wine-collector-worthy Nathan Coombs Estate vineyard designate blends.

“The most exciting thing about having a winery in an on-the-rise AVA is the sense of community and pioneering discovery that come along with it,” says Megan Baccitich, Paul Hobbs Winery’s director of winemaking. “Additionally, I find it rewarding to have the opportunity to be instrumental in the creation of the AVA’s reputation.”

Baccitich notes that California wines are finally becoming better understood among customers, that it is “a multifaceted region, meaning it has variable climates, soils, varietals, vintages and wine styles. Specific to the Coombsville AVA, we’ve seen it perform very well in both hot and cool vintages. We understand it to have a strong diurnal shift, which makes for intense color and concentration in the wine. This challenge of shifting weather patterns has turned out to be a positive for us.”

Likewise, Laura Barrett, winemaker of Casey Flat Ranch in the Capay Valley AVA, enjoys surprising people with the likes of Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and a Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon blend made “from a place they have never heard of. I love educating them on the Capay Valley — where it is located, the history of the valley, the climate and soil. The challenges are that we have no coattails to follow, so we are creating our own path to success from the ground up. This began with figuring out which grape varieties to plant, originally an experiment in 2003.”

Malibu Wine

One of the most exciting AVAs to recently emerge is Malibu Coast. In 2014, after three years of applying for AVA status, more than 50 local vintners were granted the power to grace their bottles with the Malibu Coast AVA designation.

“Unbeknownst to most people, there is documented history of the existence of vineyards in Malibu close to 200 years ago,” explains Elliott Dolin of Dolin Malibu Estate Vineyards. “Over the course of time — between diseases, Prohibition and increased development — vineyards disappeared from the scene until the mid-1980s, when restaurateur Michael McCarty planted what we consider the first ‘modern-day’ vineyard in Malibu.”

“Excellent growing conditions led others to follow, and the Saddle Rock and Rosenthal Vineyards appeared several years later, each obtaining their own unique AVAs (Saddlerock-Malibu and Malibu-Newton Canyon),” Dolin adds. “Throughout the years of late 1990 and early 2000, a number of other vineyards sprung up and the movement gained momentum. During this time, Malibu wines were gaining recognition and winning awards in major wine competitions. However, other than the Saddlerock and Newton Canyon wines, the wines originating from Malibu grapes could only be designated as ‘Los Angeles County’ or ‘California.’ Neither offered the ‘sense of place’ or origin that we felt our wines deserved.”

Now that the group’s efforts have led to the establishment of a proper AVA, Dolin is reveling in the attention it’s received for, say, its Chardonnay. However, marketing, he says, remains a significant challenge.

“We have proven that we can produce award-winning wines, but we must raise public awareness of the quality and unique character of the wines coming out of our region,” he explains. “Our most convenient target is the local audience, and Malibu wines are featured in most every wine shop in the area. But we hope to expand our audience throughout the state and nationwide, perhaps internationally.”

“Malibu is a recognized name for many reasons, but wine is not yet at the forefront of that recognition,” he adds. “While the mystique of ‘Malibu’ can work to our advantage and entice consumers to try our wines, we want them to be viewed and appreciated as serious efforts worthy of recognition, not just for the novelty of originating from Malibu.”

This is when the power of social media to engage audiences and build interest is an especially poignant tool to encourage action among buyers.

“I like seeing these like-minded producers working together in order to promote the wines as a whole,” says Story. “Having these wines placed in local wine shops, which are well thought out and mindful, is a major boost as well. But, bottom line, it all starts by getting a filled glass into the consumer’s hand.”

The Tequila Class of 2015

There’s a mystique and romance surrounding tequila that few products enjoy. The import has captivated the imagination of the American drinking public, making it the fastest growing category of spirits in the country. As aficionados grow more discerning, distillers are responding by releasing the best and brightest their craft can produce – innovative offerings such as ultra-premium blancos, vintage-dated and single-estate bottlings and increasingly rarer and older añejos.

“I’m confident that in the foreseeable future tequila will challenge vodka as America’s spirit of choice,” contends Gary Shansby, founder and chairman of Partida Tequila. “Tequila has everything consumers are looking for in a spirit—body, texture, enticing aromatics, layers upon layers of sensational flavors and unlimited drink applications. Vodka simply can’t offer consumers the same enticements.”

Crafting great tequila is a labor- and time-intensive process. Agaves mature at their own pace, irrespective of demand. It takes the plant between eight and twelve years to reach maturity and optimally is harvested when the plant’s natural sugar content has peaked at about 21-25 brix. The agave thrives in rich volcanic soil, and a warm and dry climate. Cutting corners or speeding up the process may make financial sense, but it’s not how to make great tequila.

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New Tequilas Launched

The unfettered growth of tequilas has left many consumers feeling overwhelmed. As of November 2014 there were 1,324 brands (“marcas”) of tequila being produced by 154 registered tequila distilleries. So in case you’ve missed the initial fanfare over their release, here is our take on new tequilas destined for the fast track. After all, nothing breeds success like success.

An excellent example is DeLeón Tequila, a super-premium brand handcrafted in the Los Altos Highlands from sugar-rich agaves. The blanco is double distilled, chill-filtered and bottled unaged. The brand’s reposado is matured two months in both charred, American white oak barrels and French oak casks, while the DeLeón Añejo is rested a minimum of 12 months.

According to Miguel Cedeño Cruz, master distiller 
of DeLeón Tequila, the brand is establishing a new standard of luxury. “Every step of the production process is taken to the next level in order to achieve the highest quality possible.”

Equally engaging is Tequila Villa Lobos 100% de Agave, a collaboration between Carlos Camarena, mastermind behind El Tesoro and Tequila Ocho, and Dale Sklar, renowned tequila expert. In addition to using estate grown agaves, the brand sports a few production twists.

Unlike most blanco tequilas that are bottled unaged, Villa Lobos Blanco is rested in stainless steel
 tanks for six months prior to bottling to allow the tequila’s constituent to fully integrate. Villa Lobos Reposado is also rested prior to being aged in American oak for 11 months. The brand’s añejo is aged for two years in charred, American oak barrels.

“We set out to make Tequila Villa Lobos the best tequila possible,” Sklar says. “We wanted the tequila to be soft and gentle. It’s a spirit that caresses the palate in almost a feminine way. Carlos Camarena is a true genius with a still.”

As it is with wine, the growing region where the agaves are cultivated and the tequila is made is a point of distinction between brands. Few better illustrate this point than Tierra Noble Tequila 100% de Agave, which is made at the highest distillery in the world, La Estacada. Located at 7,200 feet above sea level, the purity of the air, cool temperatures and soil composition all factor into the tequila’s overall character.

“The low temperatures slow down the fermentation process, and after eight days the must undergoes a second fermentation, better known as malolactic fermentation,” notes Alberto Herrera, master distiller and owner of Tierra Noble. “The cool, damp climate in our cellars slows maturation and adds to the complexity of the flavors and aromas.”

The brand is most ably represented by Tierra Nobel Reposado, which is matured in American white oak for up to 12 months, and Tierra Noble Añejo, which is aged in French and American white barrels for 24 to 30 months.

Newcomer Celestial Tequila is made from single-estate agaves grown by fourth-generation agave farmers in the famed Lowlands of Amatitán. In contrast to Tierra Noble’s temperate upbringing, growing conditions in the “valley terroir” are exceedingly warm and dry and the agaves grow in mineral-rich, red clay soil.

Crafted under the watchful eye of Master Tequilero Raul Garcia, Celestial Silver is bottled fresh from the still, while the Celestial Reposado is matured in charred, ex-Bourbon barrels for up to 11 months. The añejo spends a minimum of 18 months in American oak.

According to Bruce Milligan, vice-president of Tequila Celestial, the defining characteristic of the tequila is its brilliant agave character. “The very essence of the Lowlands is forward and present; bright, yet earthy like the flavor of freshly roasted agave. Celestial is made with care, passion and a true undying respect for nature and our environment.”

Jalisco is only one of the Mexican states that can produce tequila. Mi Casa 100% Agave Tequila is made from agaves grown on the Rodriguez family ranch in Michoacán, the only single-estate tequila exported from the region. Part of Mi Casa’s character is due to the agave’s unusually high sugar content, which averages 30%-35% brix.

“There is nothing that affects the quality of a tequila more so than the quality of the agave you use to make it,” contends Arthur Eli Rodriguez, patriarch of the Mi Casa Family. “We rest our blanco for at least six months, which softens the mouthfeel and finish of the spirit considerably.”

Mi Casa Reposado is aged for 10 months in barrels obtained from Heaven Hill. The añejo is matured up to 30 months in ex-Bourbon barrels.

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VIDA Tequila 100% Agave Azul is produced at Tequilera de Arandas with mature agaves cultivated for up to a decade in the rich soil of the Highlands. “We bake our agaves in brick ovens called hornos,” says brand owner Lisa Barlow. “The extracted juice is fermented and during the process 
we introduce oxygen into the fermenting wash, a practice designed to make the yeast work more efficiently. It 
also has the affect of giving the tequila a creamier, silkier textured body.”

The fermented juice—referred to as mosto—is distilled twice in the distillery’s stainless steel stills with only a small portion of each run actually making its way to a bottle.

Snifter-worthy VIDA Tequila Añejo is matured for two years in lightly-charred, French Limousin oak barrels. The reposado is aged for six months in ex-Bourbon barrels, while the blanco is left unaged.

Another newcomer is Campeón Tequila 100% de Agave Azul, a popular brand produced at Tequila El Viejito in the eastern Highlands. After harvesting, the agaves are brought to the distillery where they are steam cooked in brick ovens at low temperatures, a practice that ensures the starches in the agaves are fully metabolized into fermentable sugar.

“Campeón is stylistically crafted to be fruit forward 
and soft on the palate, highlighting the exceptional quality of our agaves,” notes John Palatella, president of The Legacy Group, producer of Campeón Tequila. “Our most laudable characteristic is the soft and subtle tannic structure of our tequila, which has no esophageal burn and balanced minerality.”

The range also includes Campeón Reposado, which 
is aged six to eight months in charred, American white oak barrels. The Campeón Añejo, which is barrel-aged for 
16 to 18 months, makes it an excellent candidate for sipping after dinner.

From the Ansan Distillery comes an ultra-premium 
blanco called Tequila Baron Platinum 100% Puro de Agave. The savory blanco is produced from mature, 10-year-old agaves heavy with sugar. After fermentation, the wash is triple distilled in a traditional pot still. The tequila contains no additives or artificial flavoring and is gluten-free.

According to a company spokesman, Tequila Baron is 
able to achieve its clean taste without the use of glycerin or other additives. “The mature agaves are slowly cooked at low heat to assure the caramelization of all their sugar. Pot still distillation cooks off the volatiles and leaves only the heart of the distillation run. To assure consistency, a panel of experts sample each batch to confirm it matches the desired taste profile.”

The marketing propositions behind all-world El Luchador Organic Blanco 100% de Agave Tequila are crystal clear. The first is that the single estate agaves used to make the tequila are USDA and EU certified organic, meaning they were cultivated without the use of pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. The end result is a cleaner finished spirit.

The second is that artisanal El Luchador Tequila is bottled at a lip-tingling 110 proof. Water is used to dilute most tequilas to 80 proof. So the less water used to dilute the tequila, the more flavorful it will be. The flavors in El Luchador are vibrant, complex and thoroughly delicious, a glimpse into what tequila ought to taste like.

“Being among the first distill-proof tequilas to market gives El Luchador a distinct advantage,” states tequilero and Brand Owner David Ravandi. “Branding also plays an important role in distinguishing El Luchador as a truly artisanal product; one that isn’t just another brand extension, but a product with a truly unique identity and appeal.”

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Regional Favorites

Lunazul Primero Añejo is aged for a minimum of 18 months in charred, American oak barrels. Here’s the twist. After the tequila has reached optimum maturity, its color is gently filtered out. The result is a tequila with pristine clarity and a curvaceous body.

“From a mixology point of view, Primero has everything you could want in an añejo—great taste and a beckoning bouquet—only no heavy color,” observes Reid Hafer, senior brand manager.

Among the most critically acclaimed brands to reach our shores is Crótalo 100% Agave Tequila. The ultra-premium range is handcrafted at Tequila Embajador in Atotonilco from organic agaves cultivated in the red volcanic soil of the Highlands. The aged marques grab most of the headlines.

Crótalo markets several different extra añejos. The 
Extra Añejo Reserva is first aged for three years in French Limousin oak barrels and then two more years in proprietary oak barrels, the insides of which have been charred. The brand’s 7-year Extra Añejo Gran Reserva is aged an additional four years in the proprietary oak. Finally, Crótalo Tres Marcos 3•5•7 is a blend of the 3-year French oak Extra Añejo, the 5-year Extra Añejo Reserva, and the 7-year Extra Añejo Gran Reserva.

According to Brand Owner Mark Carlston, he needed special permission from the CRT to create the extra añejos. “I believe the double-barrel 
aging process imbue Crótalo Extra Añejos with flavors and characteristics that are unmatched.”

Outfitted in beautiful, hand-painted ceramic bottles, Calavera Tequila 100% de Agave celebrates one of Mexico’s most revered holidays, Dia de los Muertos. The tequila is made by both artisanal techniques and state of the art techniques. For example, the agaves are cooked in brick ovens and stainless autoclaves, and then slowly fermented using naturally occurring yeasts. These limited release tequilas are double distilled in extremely small batches at Destiladora del Valle de Tequila. Both the blanco and the 4-6 month reposado are made from 100% Lowlands agaves, while the añejo, which is aged in American oak for 1-2 years, is crafted from a blend of Highland and Lowland agaves.

“Calaveras are small sugar skulls used to decorate the shrines of the 
dearly departed,” says Brand Owner James Robb. “The beautiful skull bottles are hand-painted by local artists. It’s a skill set passed down from generation to generation. Each bottle is unique with a focus on quality and fine craftsmanship – just like the tequila.”

As a brand, Muerto 100% Puro de Agave Tequila set out to offer an artisanal tequila at a reasonable price, according to Brand Owners Mike O’Hara and Ralph Bailey. “We like to say we offer a white collar product at a blue collar price.”

Muerto Plata is bottled straight from the still, while the Reposado is aged for a minimum of 7 months in Canadian white oak barrels. After harvesting, the agaves are scrutinized to ensure quality. Then they are milled and the juice is fermented over the course of seven days. The fermented wash is double distilled and subjected to rigorous filtration.

Muerto Tequila, like the other recent arrivals, is a handmade spirit, and as 
such it is different in taste and personality than the rest. With dozens of new 
tequila brands entering the marketplace every year, all that’s left to say is, 
“Welcome to America.”

 

Robert Plotkin is a judge at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and author of 16 books on bartending and beverage management including Secrets Revealed of America’s Greatest Cocktails. He can be reached at www.AmericanCocktails.com or by e-mail at robert@barmedia.com.

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When Celebrities Make Tequila

Celebrity-owned tequila brands are one of the fastest-growing trends in one of the fastest-growing spirits categories, and in many respects, celebrities are the perfect brand owners. For one thing, they bring fame and fortune to the table. If they have viable thoughts on how the product should be produced, so much the better. But those closest to these brands insist that the celebs bring a passion for the spirit that’s impossible to feign.

A sterling example is Casamigos 100% Agave Tequila, the owners of which are George Clooney, restaurant mogul Rande Gerber, and Discovery Land Company CEO Michael Meldman. According to general manager and COO David Gimpelson, the tequila was initially intended for personal use and to be shared only with family and friends.

“We set out to create the smoothest, best-tasting tequila, one with absolutely no burn,” Gimpelson says. “George and Rande worked closely with the master distiller and held many blind tastings until after five years the tequila was perfected.”

Sean “Diddy” Combs already owns a popular spirits brand—Ciroc Vodka—so recent news that he, along with spirits giant Diageo, purchased DeLeón 100% Agave Tequila surprised no one. But Combs has big plans for the tequila.

In addition to the base brand, DeLeón Platinum, which sells for $60 per 750ml, there will also be an ultra-premium range and a luxury line—priced between $150 and $850—sourced from the distiller’s private reserves.

It seems as long as spirits play a role in the nightlife, there will be celebrities who want to invest some of their cash.

 

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Category Competition Heats Up

The tequila category is rapidly changing. Not long ago, customers perceived of the spirit 
as a shot drink, or something to be consumed primarily in Margaritas or at parties.

But tastes are shifting. Tequila has benefitted from rising consumer interest in premium products. Brands have shifted focus accordingly, and are educating drinkers and industry professionals on tequila quality and innovation.

A Premium Spirit

Patrón first readjusted their marketing in 2000 to highlight the spirit as high quality and sophisticated.

“We’re seeing an increased interest in more complex styles of tequilas,” says Greg Cohen VP, corporate communications, Patrón Spirits. “We’ve recently introduced our Roca Patrón tequilas, which are produced entirely from the ancient tahona process.”

Many other brands are now proceeding similarly. With a lineage that traces back to distiller Don Cenobio Sauza, who coined the term “tequila” in 1873, Hornitos prides itself on high standards.

“As the category grows, we see consumers trading up to premium products, including 100% agave and tequilas with distinct aging, as well as looking for unique flavors,” says Gary Ross, senior brand director of tequila at Beam Suntory. “We’re capitalizing on these trends through innovations that appeal to tequila drinkers and those new to the spirit.”

However, Hornitos also remains loyal to tequila’s past. “Hornitos Tequila continues to be especially popular during shot occasions,” Ross explains. “This led to last year’s launch of Hornitos Lime Shot, elevating the ‘salt + tequila + lime’ ritual, as well as the recent debut of Hornitos Spiced Honey.”

Catering towards the luxury tequila connoisseur, 1800’s newest offering is a “perfectly aged, highly limited edition” extra añejo tequila, according to the company. 1800 Colección ($2,700) is available in limited batches and filled in a “one-of-a-kind” pewter decanter designed by artist Gary Baseman.

Reserva is another brand looking to appeal to drinkers with refined tastes. Part of the Jose Cuervo family, this brand is releasing a three-year old extra-anejo tequila Reserva de la Familia ($150), matured in French and American oak barrels, and packaged in a wooden box adorned with the work of a Mexican artist.

The portfolio of brands Tequila Herradura and el Jimador ranges from premium to super-premium.

“There is a niche for tequila aficionados looking for something different, a new tequila experience,” says Liz Edwards, sr. brand manager, Tequila Herradura. “These trends have been positive to the tequila category as a whole and play nicely with our tequila portfolio. Tequila Herradura recently launched Colección de la Casa, a series of small batch tequilas for tequila aficionados.”

A Lesson in Tequila

Tequila is a versatile spirit, Cohen says, capable of replacing vodka or other white spirits in any cocktail. The key is to teach this to consumers.

“Education has always played an important role in our sales and marketing efforts,” Cohen says. “For example, our Patrón Aficionados program is an initiative designed to educate local bartenders and trade about the category, and our brands, and have some fun creating interesting and innovative cocktails.”

As more brands position their tequilas in the premium market, achieving distinction will be a challenge.

“There are more and more 100% agave tequilas out there, but there is still a gap in quality, and understanding the nitty-gritty of tequila,” says Nikhil Bahadur, Co-founder and COO of the small-batch tequila brand Blue Nectar. “Educating consumers and the trade has been crucial in order to highlight how we are different.”

Holding tastings remains a reliable method to reach through to customers and industry professionals.

“Tastings are key to get lips to liquid and dispel tequila myths,” adds Bahadur. “The Paloma is one of my favorite cocktails and it is an easy introduction to a tequila conversation and neat sampling. We are constantly holding staff trainings to teach retailers, waitstaff and bartenders about agave spirits. Brand knowledge is not enough. You have to have a broader base of tequila knowledge.” — Kyle Swartz

Going Straight

Originally much of vodka’s stellar rise was sparked by marketing that spotlighted status appeal and indefinable allure. Then came an influx of flavors to entice new consumers into the category. Today, that is changing: customers’ palates are more educated and the focus is on the quality in the bottle. Consumers are interested in the provenance of spirits, what they are made from and how they are produced. And they are trading up for that quality.

“Vodka is a staple; it’s already over 30 percent share of throat, and the category is continuing to grow in the U.S. market,” says Nicolas Guillant, president of Imperial Brands, whose flagship is the Sobieski brand. “I think more of that growth now is coming from base vodka versus flavored.”

The Distilled Spirits Council pegs the vodka category at $5.8 billion in revenues; growth last year was a healthy 3.3 percent, with the high-end and super-premium segments surpassing 5 percent. DISCUS also reports that straight vodka at 3.7 percent is outselling flavored.

For the past few years, it seemed that much of that growth and certainly much of the excitement centered on the flamboyant flavored sector. Now that appears to be changing: the pace of flavor introductions is slowing, while many producers are focusing on their plain vodkas. A greater emphasis is being placed upon the provenance of the base spirit, and vodka customers are going straight.

The top 10 vodka brands continue to dominate the category, although smaller, craft producers are making inroads, especially in local markets. The leader, by far, is Smirnoff, with a projected 9.3 million 9-liter cases, according to the Handbook Advance 2015. All of the top 10 brands are strong performers in the straight vodka arena. And virtually all of the producers sing the praises and potential of unflavored vodka.

BD1505-vodka-chart

Plain and Simple

“Consumers continue to enjoy and embrace the versatility 
of straight vodka,” says Diana Pawlik, vice president of 
marketing for Svedka Vodka. “Flavored vodkas have been 
making headlines by expanding the category significantly and driving growth over the past few years. Recently, we’ve seen the flavored vodka segment slow down; however, straight vodka seems to be a staple spirit that will maintain relevance over time.”

“Trends ebb and flow, and it seems that the fever pitch of fascination with vodka flavors is waning,” comments Nicole Portwood, vice president of brand marketing for Tito’s Handmade Vodka, which coincidentally does not offer any flavors. On the other hand, notes Portwood, more flavored whiskies are entering the market. “So, I don’t think it’s that consumers have completely tired of flavors in general, but they are looking for innovation outside of the category.”

Retailers report a similar trend away from flavored vodkas and an upsurge in straight sales.

“Certainly, flavored vodkas are heading south,” says Jim Rilee, district manager and buyer for the Bottle King chain, with 14 retail stores in New Jersey. “A lot of customers are moving back to regular vodka versus the flavors. People are returning to the old favorites,” he says, citing Russian Diamond as an example. Relative newcomer Tito’s also sells well at Bottle King.

“I’m a big vodka fan,” exclaims Craig Allen, owner of All Star Wine & Spirits in Latham, N.Y. That’s one reason he carries 220 different kinds of vodka, including a few oddball flavors like bacon or peanut butter & jelly — which he concedes don’t sell a lot. In fact, the retailer is culling many of the slow-selling flavors from his shelves. “We’re seeing a move toward the unflavored vodkas,” reports Allen. Of those, Reyka and Tito’s are selling strongly.

“Flavors are a great way to create the big brand billboard on the shelf, but the majority of sales are from the straight vodka,” observes Broc Smith, owner of Sarasota Liquor Locker in Sarasota, Fla. Younger legal-age customers are being captured by the flavored whiskey category, while more mature palates are going for quality spirits, says Smith. He cites Grey Goose, Chopin and Belvedere as dominating the higher end of the vodka spectrum.

“There’s a finite amount of space on 
liquor store shelves, especially for unusual flavored vodkas that consumers aren’t always so sure what to do with,” points out Greg Cohen, vice president of corporate communications for Patron Spirits, which includes Ultimat Vodka. “But there will always be a 
market, and it continues to grow for high-quality, sophisticated unflavored vodkas.”

BD1505-vodka-chart2

Flavor in Favor

Not everyone is down on flavored vodka, of course.

“When you exclude confectionary flavors, which are in free fall and down 17.6 percent, flavored vodka is, in fact, incredibly buoyant and growing at 9.6 percent, according to Nielsen,” says Umberto Luchini, vice president of marketing for 
Campari America, whose portfolio includes Skyy Vodka. “The category has shifted away from confectionary and gimmicky flavored vodkas back toward vodkas with a more sophisticated taste profile, 
like our own Skyy Infusions,” he adds. The VP says that the Infusions line has continued to outperform the flavored vodka category every year since its launch 
in 2008.

“We don’t see consumer interest in premium flavored vodkas decreasing,” asserts Gerard Thoukis, senior director of marketing for New Amsterdam Spirits. “Millennial consumers love to experiment with different drink choices and we’ve offered new flavored vodkas each year that cater to their constantly-expanding palates.” Nonetheless, he adds, “Consumers are continuing to enjoy straight vodka, as evidenced by the fact that New Amsterdam Vodka continues to grow double digits year-over-year.”

“The speed at which vodka producers are introducing new flavors has certainly slowed; however, consumers still enjoy flavored vodka,” says Tracey Clapp, vodka marketing director for the Sazerac Company. “Some flavors are received 
better than others and those with broad appeal survive the longest. Palate fatigue among consumers is no secret.” But, she 
adds, straight vodka consumption appears to be healthy. 
Sazerac’s contender is Platinum 7X Vodka, so named because it is distilled seven times for a smooth taste profile and clean, crisp finish.

BD1505-Vodka bottles

The Proof is in the Bottle

“After a period where consumers were educated that ‘good’ vodka was tasteless, now they are starting to enjoy neat consumption of vodkas that have pleasant taste and mouthfeel,” says Jonas Tahlin, managing director for Absolut Elyx. The super-premium brand touts its single-estate wheat sourced from Rabelof Castle in Sweden and its handcrafted copper still, calling Elyx “liquid silk.”

“I think people are more discerning about what’s in the bottle,” comments Rilee at Bottle King. And he notes that customers are trading up. “Premium and better are gaining the most traction.”

“Consumers are increasingly looking for quality vodkas,” Thoukis says. New Amsterdam touts the fact that it is distilled five times and triple filtered to communicate that quality.

Provenance is certainly a popular trend in vodka right now, says Cohen at Patron. He makes the point that Ultimat is the only vodka made from wheat, rye and potato, which gives it a unique flavor profile. And it is made in Poland, “the birthplace of vodka.”

“Every brand has its own story to tell,” Portwood says. For Tito’s, the core differentiators are the tale of founder Tito Beveridge, pot distillation and the fact that the vodka is made in the U.S. from 100 percent corn.

Deep Eddy Vodka, based in Austin, Texas, emphasizes the brand’s story and ingredients as well. “Consumers are migrating toward drinks with pure and natural ingredients from authentic brands created by real people,” says CEO Eric Dopkins. “We’ve benefited from that trend and we’ve experienced growth of 
117 percent last year.”

BD1505-Vodka bottles2

New and Notable

Although most of the news in the category has been flavor launches, there have been some recent developments on the straight side.

Stolichnaya announced the arrival of the elit pristine water series: Andean Edition, the third and final limited edition in the company’s ultra-premium vodka series. Each edition of elit contained a different water source; this year the waters of Colico Lake in Chile, a natural spring flowing from the Andes Mountains, was used in the vodka.

Just this March, Svedka introduced a 100-proof variant. “We introduced Svedka 100-proof with the goal of expanding our franchise and bringing a high-quality imported vodka to the 100-proof segment, which has been growing stronger than both 80-proof and flavored vodkas year over year,” Pawlik says. The packaging features a sleek, bright chrome sleeve with crisp and 
sophisticated white lettering.

Diageo has released a variant of its ultra-premium vodka line in the limited edition Ciroc Ten. Made from French grapes and retailing for a reported $250, the new vodka was recently unveiled by brand co-owner Sean Combs.

Emerging Trends

Out in the field, retailers have spotted a few new styles of vodka coming into view.

The same factors and concerns driving the organic food evolution are fueling interest in organic spirits such as Square One, Ocean Vodka, Tru, Crop and Rain. “Organic vodka is still a very small sector but it’s starting to pick up,” says Rilee at Bottle King.

Similarly, a growing number of people feel that gluten isn’t good for them. That gluten-free diet can extend to the spirits they drink, creating a niche for gluten-free vodka. “Gluten-free has gotten popular,” agrees Smith at Sarasota Liquor Locker. He cites Tito’s and Deep Eddy, both Texas vodkas made from corn as prime examples. New to the gluten-free fray is General Beauregard Dixie, a hand-crafted vodka produced in Charleston, S.C., which is six times distilled from 100 percent American corn and touts its wheat-free status. However, notes Smith, “Personally, I think if you distill a spirit made from wheat enough times there shouldn’t be any problem with gluten.”

Allen at All Star is a big proponent of New York State spirits, with a separate section devoted to local heroes. “We carry a number of craft vodkas,” says the retailer, citing Lake Placid P3 Vodka and 46 Peaks Vodka, Comb Vodka (made from honey) and Core Vodka (made from apples). “Consumers are getting away from national brands in favor of small independents, which is fueling vodka growth,” Allen says. “People taste them at a farmer’s market or a state fair and then call us looking to buy them.”

Overall, say the major players in the straight vodka category, the future looks bright.

“Vodka grew significantly in 2014, especially at the high end,” says Cohen at Patron, “and 2015 should be no different.”

“The premium and above segments in vodka are growing 
far faster than the lower price tiers,” says Campari’s Luchini, who predicts: “The vodka category will continue to be a dog fight in 2015.”

All’s Quiet on the Russian Front

Lately there has been some debate about the impact of the turmoil in Russia on vodka in the U.S. market. Certainly, Russia has had its share of problems: strife in the Ukraine, political sanctions and a collapse of the ruble due to falling oil and gas prices.

Many of the brand reps we queried on this 
topic replied, nyet, no comment or downplayed any 
consequences.

“We have not seen the situation in Russia impact New Amsterdam’s business,” declares Gerard Thoukis, senior director of marketing for New Amsterdam Spirits.

Others pointed out that vodkas are produced in a number of countries outside of Russia — Poland, 
Sweden, France and the U.S.

“The geo political climate only serves to reinforce our desire to find sustainable solutions for everything from entertainment to vehicles to clothing here at home,” comments Nicole Portwood, vice president of brand marketing for Tito’s Handmade Vodka, which, of course, is made in the USA.

David Ozgo, senior vice president of Economic and Strategic Analysis for the Distilled Spirits Council, put the matter into perspective. “Russian imports have never been a very big part of the U.S. vodka market,” he explains. Even going back to the early 2000s when vodka sales were growing rapidly, Russian imports were never more than 2 million cases in the U.S. market. While they have dropped down to around 400,000 today, the decline also corresponds to the period where whiskey volumes started to grow rapidly. “Thus, it would be difficult to claim that the decline in Russian vodka has to do with turmoil in Russia.”

Beat the Heat with Summertime Brews

Beer is America’s most popular beverage year-round, and when the mercury rises, it really comes into its own. Beer owns the summer.

A brewer’s challenge in the warm months
 is not so much to persuade consumers 
to drink more beer—that is pretty much of a given. It’s to use 
promotions and, increasingly, new summer styles to claim 
market share.

Brewers eye the summertime sales surge, eager to slake the thirst of beach goers, baseball fans, boaters and music buffs. The breweries’ job was once simple: mount a summer promotion that gives you the volume advantage over your competitor. Now, however, beer styles have proliferated, the drinking public craves variety and seasonal beers are increasingly popular. It may no longer be enough to dress a year-round 
flagship in a special promotion for summer; breweries also think long and hard about introducing special brews for summer drinking only.

Big brewers embrace summer

Both England and Germany have long traditions of mixing beer with a sparkling soda—often referred to as “lemonade,” but closer to an American lemon-lime soda—to create a thirst-quenching, low alcohol beverage. The English version is known as a “shandy,” and can also feature ginger ale or other sodas; the German take is called a “radler,” named after the cyclists it was designed to refresh.

Whatever the origin, these light adult alternatives have inspired both of the major beer companies this year.

MillerCoors is bringing back Coors Light’s summer line extension, now known as Coors Light Citrus Radler.

“This will be available this summer in the same size package as regular Coors Light at the same price, as well as nationally in 16-ounce cans and in 24-ounce cans in select markets,” says MillerCoors Media Relations Manager Cat Corrigan. “Our packaging graphics will have a new brand look that emphasizes the brand’s citrus refreshment.” She promises “lots of sampling and influencer work on behalf of Radler, as well as the full array or marketing support.”

Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Co., the multi-generation heritage brewery that is part of MillerCoors’ Tenth and Blake specialty division, is building on the popularity of its Summer Shandy with the introduction of Grapefruit Shandy. “The grapefruit beer market grew triple digits last year,” notes Corrigan, “and this tart, refreshing shandy will capitalize on that growth.” However, unlike a traditional shandy, this version appears not to be diluted with lemon soda, maintaining a more typical beer strength of 4.2 percent.

At Anheuser-Busch InBev, the Shock Top brand has been based, like Coors’ Blue Moon, on a traditional European wheat beer, the Belgian wit or white beer style. As first introduced, Shock Top, like the original wit style, was brewed with the addition of orange and other citrus peels and coriander. This summer, Shock Top announced the return of Shock Top Lemon Shandy, which stays faithful to the wit template, but emphasizes lemon 
instead of orange. At 4.2 percent, this is also typical beer
strength, so recommended after (not during) a summer afternoon cycling trip.

Meanwhile, Blue Moon, the American beer that first popularized the wit beer for the U.S. mass market, has grafted that style onto the unstoppable craft darling, India pale ale, releasing Blue Moon White IPA in April. The characteristically bitter IPA and the citrusy, herbal wheat-based wit styles may not be natural partners in anything but marketability, but Blue Moon promises “the best of two styles together.”

Cool down with summer imports

Among imported beers, Dos Equis is also capitalizing on the popularity of wheat beers for the summer, having recently introduced Dos Equis Azul, “a blend of signature golden wheat lager and blue agave.” Importer Heineken USA is offering Azul in a mixed Fiesta Pack, together with its other Mexican beers: Dos Equis Lager, Tecate and Sol.

Such variety packs are consistently popular with consumers, offering an easy source of beer choices without the expense of purchasing entire sixpacks. But even variety craves variety: the brand hopes to keep the collection fresh by replacing Azul with Dos Equis Roja, “a distinctive red lager crafted with Mexican malted barley and hops,” later in the season.

To attract consumers’ attention, Dos Equis will unveil its summer Luna Rising promotion, “built around the theme 
‘As the moon rises, so do the possibilities!’” The brand 
promises to give its young target audience what they desire most: “more interesting and memorable summer experiences.”

At Constellation Brands, importer of top-selling import Corona, Michael McGrew, Senior Director of Communications for the Beer Division, points out that “many of our beer brands are inextricably linked to summer,” citing the Corona Extra “Find Your Beach” year-round campaign. “So, we have a number of programs/initiatives aimed at positioning our beer portfolio as the perfect complement to carefree enjoyment during the summer with family and friends, while maximizing growth potential for our distributor and retailer partners during this timeframe,” he says.

In particular, Constellation is pushing the newly redesigned Corona Extra can, as consumers expand their activities to venues where glass is not allowed, such as beaches, golf courses and camp sites. The Victoria brand is also being launched in cans for the first time: special promotions at retail will highlight the cans for both Father’s Day and the Fiestas Patrias set of Mexican patriotic holidays.

In terms of volume, “imported beer” is nearly synonymous with “Mexican beer” in the U.S. market. Logically, a lot of summer promotions emphasize the multicultural nature of their brands.

Tecate will expand its appeal to “bicultural consumers who identify equally with their Mexican and American 
heritage,” with its “Born Bold advertising campaign, in both Spanish and English versions.” Corona Extra’s bilingual packaging, designed to drive participation in the summer EXTRA 
promotion, includes in-pack codes and summer-themed prizes. Television campaigns for Modelo Especial emphasize consumers’ Hispanic heritage, values and attitudes. New packaging for Victoria will include collectable Mexican art coasters.

Sponsorships and Partnerships

As always, sport sponsorships rise along with attendance during the summer season, with Corona Extra linked to both the Mexican national soccer team and World Championship Boxing. Tecate continues its association with boxing through its title sponsorship of the Pacquio-Mayweather fight. Pacifico—perhaps echoing its oceanic name—will continue its relationship with the World Surfing League as the official beer sponsor of the U.S. Open 
of Surfing.

Heineken will launch its inaugural year as the official beer of Major League Soccer, as well as sponsoring popular music festivals, including Coachella and Ultra—all with the promise of “creating legendary experiences for its consumers.”

Also on the concert stage, Corona Extra is sponsoring 
the upcoming U.S. tour of Latin Grammy winner Juanes, while sibling brand Corona Light eschews the Hispanic connection and throws its promotional weight behind country star 
Kenny Chesney, while touting its low 99 calories and a redesigned slim-line can at retail.

In contrast, all-digital promotions for Negra Modelo stress the brand’s culinary affinities, through the brand’s continuing partnership with Chicago’s Chef Rick Bayless, visibility on food sites, and participation in food festivals.

Meanwhile, the Newcastle brand, also imported by Heineken USA, is taking its summer offerings in more of a specialty beer direction. “Collaboration beers,” brewed in partnership with two independent breweries, have been a source of innovation and consumer interest among craft drinkers for the best part of a decade. Newcastle recently released Scotch Ale, the first in a series of collaboration editions “created with venerable European breweries.” Scotch Ale has been brewed in cooperation with Edinburgh’s Caledonian Brewery, also owned by Heineken.

Vikings Amber Ale is the second collaboration beer, brewed with Brand Brewery in the Netherlands (also owned by Heineken) to commemorate the third year of the series “Vikings” on the History Channel. Fans hope another Newcastle collaboration is in the works.

Crafty seasonals for summer

The tactics for specialty and craft breweries are different. Seasonal-style rotation has long been part of craft beer’s appeal, so summer specials are an established part of the brewing calendar. Though sought after, these seasonals tend to be regionally restricted in availability. Retailers can capitalize on this appeal, but coordination with breweries on a large scale is limited. Likewise, small size and smaller budgets limit the partnerships and sponsorships with all but the largest of the craft brewers.

Boston Beer, brewer of the Samuel Adams line, can employ some of the marketing approaches of much larger companies. For example, Samuel Adams Beers of Summer variety pack is the only place consumers will find a new brew, Downtime Pilsner, a golden lager with notes of citrus and spice. It gains added complexity from two new hop varieties used for the first time by the brewery in this classic pilsner. It joins Summer Ale—a wheat ale with lemon peel and a hint of pepper from grains of paradise—in its tenth year as a Boston Beer summer release. Rebel Rider IPA and flagship Boston Lager complete the pack, providing a style for everyone.

Boston Beer has also caught the radler wave, returning this season with Porch Rocker, which blends 
a helles-style lager with “a hand-crafted lemon blend that uses real fruit for a fresh-squeezed lemon taste,” 
according to brewery founder Jim Koch. Once again, though, the final beverage displays a non-radler strength of 4.5 percent.

In its summer promotions, Boston Beer is partnering with Weber to showcase the versatility of beer with grilled summer fare. Besides suggested pairings of specific beers with foods, “We’re encouraging experimentation and have even worked with Weber to develop recipes for Samuel Adams-soaked wood chips, which impart the flavors of Boston Lager or Summer Ale when used to smoke food on the grill,” Koch says. “Drinkers will actually be able to purchase their own do-it-yourself Samuel Adams soaked wood chip kit on our e-store this summer.”

National-scale promotions are outside the scope of most craft breweries, but some have overcome that obstacle by hosting a series of one-day events across a number of cities. New Belgium Brewing Co. will stage its annual Tour de Fat again in cities across the country with a day devoted to cycling as a sustainable form of transportation. Naturally, this celebration of “all things bicycle” is a logical link to the brewery’s flagship Fat Tire Amber Ale, as well as Skinny Dip, New Belgium’s “figure friendly” lager for summer drinking.

Summer holds the promise of light-hearted fun, lazy days and relaxed entertaining. Beer, in all its variety, is a natural companion. The only question is, ‘which beer to choose?’

 

Julie Johnson has been writing about craft beer and the beer business for 20 years.

Retailer Wine Selections: Rosé

FIVE STARS

(97) Champagne Henriot, Brut Rosé (France). A stunning example of a world class rosé Champagne. From the brilliant salmon pink color, to the fine and delicate mousse, you can see its pedigree. Delicate strawberry and cherry on the nose are followed by a palate of complexity and elegance. A long, balanced finish confirms the wine’s pedigree and class. Outstanding. ($70)

(95) 2014 Chateau Grande Cassagne Rosé (France). 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. A gorgeous, brilliant ruby color with fresh, ripe aromas of lilac and raspberry. Flavors of sweet/tangy berry and cherry dazzle the palate and finish with racy, crisp acidity. A perfect warm-weather aperitif. ($11)

(95) 2014 Domaine Saint Antoine Rosé (France). This is 100% Syrah and it shows! The color is cherry-red. There’s a floral bouquet with notes of rosé petal followed by cherry and red currant. Those fruit flavors continue on the palate with hints of spice and minerality. The finish is long, lively and lip-smacking, with just a bit of sweet fruit. Pair this with grilled Salmon. ($11)

(95) 2014 Domaine du Tariquet Rosé (France). A really neat blend of 30% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 15% Tannat and 25% Syrah. Hints of pomegranate, cherry and raspberry tantalize the nose and show up on the palate with a bit of ginger and pear. The mouthfeel is rather delicate, but intriguing. The finish is clean, refreshing and very satisfying. An elegant, delicious wine. ($13)

(95) 2014 Guilhem Moulin De Gassac Rosé (France). 50% Grenache and 50% Carignan from 25- to 50-year-old vines grown on stony soils. The color is pretty, a pale carnation pink. Nuances of peach, strawberry, wildflower and “flint” all harmonize on the nose. Flavors of not-quite-ripe raspberry, apricot and peach delight the palate and finish with crisp sweet/tart acidity balanced with a hint of minerality. A terrific thirst-quencher. ($12)

(93) n.v. Gruet Sparkling Brut Rosé (New Mexico). Always a favorite; fresh, dry and rich, with hints of strawberries, raspberries and cherry; consistent quality. Great with ham, Indian food and appetizers. ($17)

(93) 2014 Domaine Le Pive Gris Vin Rosé (France). Don’t be fooled by the tropical fruit in the nose. This pale pink wine, featuring four grapes (Merlot, Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Cabernet Franc), is actually a dry light blend. Perfect for enjoying outdoors on a summer’s eve. ($15)

(92) 2014 Martin Ray Vineyards and Winery Russian River Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir (California). This rosé from the Russian River Valley will awaken your senses, starting with its pink rose-petal color, followed by floral notes of raspberry and orange blossoms, and continuing with beautiful tropical fruit and lime flavors. Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this wine is medium bodied with excellent balance. ($15)

(92) 2014 Domaine St Croix Cuvee Montlaures (France). Lively and elegant, full-up berries and minerality leading to a balanced, fruity finish. ($24)

(92) 2014 Chateau La Tour St Anne Rosé (France). This delicate wine delivers cherry and strawberry notes. It pairs well with lighter dishes or on its own and should be served well chilled. ($15)

(92) Villa Sandi Il Fresco Rosé (Italy). A lovely and bright blend of Glera and Pinot Nero. A small amount of the red wine is added to the white, contributing to the pale salmon color. Fresh berries on the nose are followed by the bright fruit, with some added weight and complexity. A longer finish adds to the appeal. ($15)

(92) 2014 Dr. Konstantin Frank, Dry Rosé (New York). The darker pink color showcases the blend of different varieties, as the wine is composed of Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. Ripe and attractive, berry fruit on the nose is followed by a taste that’s clean and bright, with a refreshing and satisfying finish. ($15)

FOUR STARS

(91) 2014 Charles & Charles (Washington). Vibrant pink with complex flavors of strawberry, raspberry and cherry. A blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cabernet, Grenache and Cinsault. A touch of citrus on the finish cleanses the palate for the next sip. ($12)

(91) 2014 Rosé de Floridene (France). Tangy redcurrant and cherry flavors show good energy and lift with a spine of juicy acidity. A floral quality comes up on the zesty finish, which leaves behind a note of tangy berry skin. ($20)

(91) 2014 Le Cirque, Cotes Catalanes Rosé (France). A beautiful shade of pink, this three-grape blend (Grenache Noir, Syrah, Grenache Gris) has ripe strawberry and spice flavors with a long finish. For those looking for a gateway from red to rosé, this is your bottle. ($14)

(91) 2014 Domaine Pegau, Pink Pegau Rosé (France). This salmon-colored Rhone from southern France is cool on the palate, with fresh hints of lemon and grapefruit. A mouth-watering dry rosé that leaves you wanting more. Excellent as an aperitif or served with meaty fish. ($20)

(91) 2013 Chateau Riotor Cotes de Provence Rosé (France). An elegant rosé from the heart of Provence grown in soils of sand and red schist. This is quite refined and shows lots of Provencal character with notes of watermelon, strawberries and minerals. Vibrant acidity makes this a great pairing for light fair or just a wonderful, refreshing thirst quencher. ($20)

(91) Muxagat 2013 Rosé (Portugal). This bright pink rosé of Touriga Nacional is a fine example of high-quality Douro Valley winemaking. Bright pink in the glass, the nose is dominated by fresh red berries. With some aging in older French barrels, the wine has more weight and texture than most rosés. The finish is long and dry, making the wine a great food-friendly choice. ($18)

(91) 2014 Fattoria di Magliano, Ilario Rosato (Italy). From the same region of production where many Super Tuscan wines are produced, this rosé of Sangiovese is sure to please. Salmon pink in color, the bright and lovely cherry and berry fruit notes on the nose are inviting. The palate is clean and vibrant, with a good backbone. A great food-pairing wine. ($19)

(91) 2014 Jaboulet Parrallèle 45 Côtes du Rhône Rosé (France). Composed of a typical southern Rhône blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, the wine is a pale salmon in the glass. On the nose and palate, there is an attractive combination of bright red fruit, with hints of citrus. Exceptionally refreshing, this could be your “go-to pink” for the spring and summer. ($13)

(91) 2014 Vinha da Defesa Rosé (Portugal). This blend of Syrah and Aragonês (Tempranillo) is a brilliant deep pink in the glass. The nose of red berries is echoed by the palate. The finish is lingering and balanced. A great wine, of class and refinement. ($15)

(91) 2014 Casa Ferreirinha, Vinha Grande Rosé (Portugal). A wonderful example of a Portuguese rosé. Produced in the Douro Valley using one of the promary Port production varieties, Touriga Nacional, the wine is a briliant pale pink in the glass. The nose is dominated by attractive red fruit and berry notes. The palate is bright and fresh, with a long and well-balanced finish. Great with a wide range of foods. ($15)

(91) 2013 Castello Banfi Centine Rosé (Italy). A Super Tuscan rosé; a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. A bright pale pink, the nose is highlighted by wild berry and some cherry. The taste is very similar, with bright and clean berry fruit, with good texture and structure. The finish is clean, and bright. Exceptionally refreshing and tasty. ($12)

(91) 2014 Domaine de Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé (France). From the obscure Loire Valley 
appellation (Reuilly). 100% Pinot Gris. Beautiful light salmon color. This leans to the lighter side, but still very serious. More citrus notes, grapefruit, and maybe some pear. Great mineral notes. ($22)

(90) Lioco “Indica” Rosé Mendocino (California). 100% old vine Carignan. This wine has a wild side. Everything from rhubarb, wild strawberries and raspberry, with hints of stone fruit. Great food wine. ($19)

(90) Fattario di Bisciano Rosado di Toscana 2013 (Italy). This rosé of 100% Sangiovese. It provides a nice textural experience with seemingly contradictory tart cranberry and ripe cherry flavors accented by hints of fresh chopped herbs. The finish has a touch of sweetness that makes this ideal for consuming with spicy cuisine. ($11)

(90) 2013 Niner Estate Rosé of Grenache (California). 100% Grenache from their Paso Robles Estate. A beautiful nose of strawberries, flowers and minerals are re-enforced on a pleasantly oily palette. A framing of lively acidity completes the package. ($20)

(90) 2014 Angels and Cowboys, Sonoma County Rosé (California). When you taste this rosé, the first thing you will notice is its creamy complexity with bright acidity. With hints of strawberry and citrus lime, this blend of Grenache, Malbec, Pinot Noir and Tempranillo is perfect for sipping. ($15)

(90) Broadbent, Vinho Verde Rosé (Portugal). This Rosé from Portugal’s largest wine region is truly a crowd pleaser, perfect for 
a summer party or a weeknight gathering. This low-alcohol wine has a light effervescence with a ripe raspberry emphasis and will satisfy both the wine novice and the connoisseur. ($12)

(90) 2014 Hofer Rosé Zweigelt (Austria). Beautiful color; filled with enticing aromas of wild strawberries and a hint of spice on the finish. More full bodied than most Rosés. ($17)

(90) 2014 Chateau de la Selve “Maguelonne” Ardeche (France). Organic blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. Fresh and delicate — aromatic fruit with a touch a minerality. ($11)

(90) 2014 Chateau Fabregues Costieres de Nimes (France). A very nice rosé waiting to be discovered — it is supple in the mouth, with a very nice finish and good body full of fresh fruity flavors. ($16)

(90) 2014 Le Canon de Montpezat (France). A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this rosé is made from direct pressing the berries without maceration and low temperature, to obtain a pale color and retain its freshness. It offers beautiful floral and berry notes. ($17)

(90) 2014 Domaine Fontanyl Rosé de Provence (France). Lively and fragrant, this beautiful Rosé from Provence shows alluring aromas of ripe berries and dark flowers. The flavors of ripe strawberry and wild cherry are presented in a sophisticated manner that preserves the character of the fruit, but in a dry, straightforward style. ($15)

(90) 2014 Domaine Guy Mousset Cotes du Rhone Rosé (France). This delightful and crisp Rosé offers fresh flavors of strawberry and cherry. Made primarily from Grenache, this dry and clean rosé is nicely balanced with a refreshingly long finish. ($15)

(90) 2014 Mezzacorona Rosé (Italy). From northern Italy, the wine is composed of Lagrein, an outstanding variety of the area. Bright pink with purple hints, the wine provides a lovely bouquet of red fruit and subtle floral notes. The palate is balanced by the clean, bright fruit, as well as the backbone and structure common to so many wines of the region. Great with food, it is a very satisfying wine. ($12)

(90) 2013 Marqués de Cáceres Dry Rosé (Spain). Produced from Tempranillo, the iconic grape of the Rioja region, the wine is a bright, medium salmon-pink. The nose is comprised of fresh berries, with a slight floral aspect. Very enticing. The palate is bright and fresh, and the elegant berry flavors persist through the balanced finish. ($9)

(90) 2014 Saget La Perriere Rosé (France). This 100% rosé of Pinot Noir is sourced from a couple of diverse regions, contributing to its complexity. A bright pink, with subtle salmon tones, in the glass. The nose is comprised of fresh berry, bright cherry and a subtle floral note. The taste is fresh and clean, with a long and balanced finish. ($14)

(90) 2013 le Rosé de Mouton Cadet (France). Produced from typical Bordeaux red grape varieties, the wine is a bight pink in the glass, with slight salmon notes. On the nose, there’s lots and lots of berry fruit, and a subtle floral hint. The palate is bright and clean, with plenty of clean fruit and an intriguing texture. Showing plenty of class and elegance. ($11)

(90) 2014 Inman Family Endless Crush, Rosé of Pinot Noir (California). This single-vineyard rosé of Pinot Noir is an outstanding example of grape-growing and winemaking. Pale pink in the glass, the nose is complex and clean. Notes of red berry, tropical fruit, as well as some hints of citrus. The palate parallels the nose, with plenty of bright refreshing flavors and textures. A special rosé for a special occasion. ($25)

(89) v.v. Frontera (Chile). Always a unique blend — refreshing, soft red fruits. Great with shellfish and summer fare. Good value and a crowd pleaser. ($6)

(89) 2013 J Vineyards Russian River Valley Vin Gris (California). 100% Pinot Noir. Flowery Aroma. Crisp with strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavors. Pleasant lingering finish. ($19)

(89) 2014 Chemin des Sables IGP Cotes Revees (France). “Chemin des sables,” translated as “sand trail,” and transports you to the South of France with fresh, light and delicious flavors of strawberry and citrus fruits. ($12)

(89) 2014 Chateau de la Roulerie Les Camelias Rosé de Loire (France). Smooth, fresh and clean with good body. An alternative to a traditional Rosé from Loire that is sometimes quite dry, this offers beautiful strawberry and fruit notes. ($15)

(89) Chateau de Nages Buti Nages Nimes Rosé (France). A blend of Grenache and Syrah serve up fragrant and fresh aromas of ripe cherries and melon mixed with rosé petals fading into a crisp, clean finish.

(89) 2014 Domaine de la Presidente Rosé Rosa Rosam (France). The nose is expressive and pleasant, dominated by redcurrant. The mouth is velvety smooth and unctuous with lots of finesse and fresh fruit aromas. ($13)

(89) 2014 Chateau Belingard Bergerac Rosé (France). This mouth-watering rosé starts with aromas of exotic fruits, followed by a mini explosion of black currant and cherry flavors. Quite round on the palate, this rosé is a wine for both thirst and pleasure. ($13)

(89) 2014 H to H Cotes du Rhone Rosé (France). This Rosé is blended to deliver the true characteristics of refreshing acidity and red fruit flavors. This wine pairs beautifully with seafood and lighter fare. ($13)

(89) 2014 Chateau de Rouet Cotes de Provence Rosé (France). Moderately sweet orange blossom aromas, pale orange color, dry on the palate with tangerine notes, medium-bodied and refreshing. ($14)

(89) 2014 Blackbird Vineyards, Napa Valley Arriviste Rosé (California). The initial hints of sweetness of the Bordeaux varietal grapes in this wine (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc) give way to its more masculine style with strong complexity and depth. This wine is crisp with tart cherry and bright acidity. ($26)

(89) 2014 Domaine Houchart “Tradition” Rosé (France). From Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah. Perennial star in the region. Great price/value ratio. Mostly ripe red fruits, wild strawberry and some hints of grapefruit. ($16)

(89) 2014 Las Rocas Rosé of Garnacha (Spain). 100% old vine Grenache from Calatayud in Northeast Spain. Tremendous value. Aromatic with exuberant red raspberry flavors. Lush texture and juicy finish. ($11)

(88) 2014 Reserve de la Saurine Rosé (France). Nice melon aromas, pale pink color, crisp acidity, melon and peach flavors with a long finish, an excellent value. ($9)

(88) 2014 Chateau de Cornemps Rosé (France). A delightful rosé made from the classic Bordeaux grapes. A fresh nose hinting at red fruit aromas give way to flavors of strawberries and cherries all packed in a bright, crisp package with a dry finish. ($15)

(88) 2014 Bougrier Rosé d’Anjou (France). This crisp, refreshing Loire Valley rosé is filled with fresh berry and fruit notes and is perfect to be enjoyed on its own or with lighter fare. ($13)

(88) 2014 D’Autrefois Rosé de Pinot Noir (France). This delightful dry Rosé, made from 100% Pinot Noir, is filled with fresh strawberry and cherry aromas. A pleasant acidity balances the fruity palate. ($14)

(88) Chateau Beaulieu Rosé, Coteaux D’aix-En-Provence (France). Four grape blend. Aroma of flowers. Raspberry and strawberry flavors. Dry finish.

(88) Los Rocas Rosé, Calatayud (Spain). 100% Grenache. Light bodied and crisp with Strawberry and cherry flavors. Fairly long, pleasant dry finish. A good buy. ($12)

(88) 2014 Dune Gris de Gris (France). Pink grapefruit and white peach aromas of flavors with an extremely well balanced finish. ($11)

(87) 2014 WYSIWYG Rosé (France). A light, salmon pink color that has a very expressive bouquet revealing aromas of fresh fruit and strawberry. ($10)

Trip Report: Bourbon and Barrels

In March I traveled to Louisville, Kentucky, where I had the chance to learn about Old Forester, Woodford Reserve and some other Brown-Forman brands, as well as tour the company’s headquarters and cooperage. This was my third trip to Kentucky over the past few years, and it’s always one of my favorite places to visit when covering the beverage alcohol industry.

While I was there, I met with Campbell Brown, the great-great-grandson of George Garvin Brown. Campbell is president of Old Forester, a brand the company is spending $50 million on for new line extensions and the opening of a distillery in Louisville on Whiskey Row, the original site for Old Forester. The company expects to open the new distillery, which will include a visitor area, sometime in 2016.

“This Bourbon renaissance is driven by curiosity – consumers have a love affair with the spirit and want to learn what makes each product different,” Campbell Brown says. “If we can create a home location for the brand, customers will continue to fall in love once they can see it, smell it and meet the people behind it. Then they become lifelong consumers.”

Later I traveled to the Brown-Forman Cooperage in Louisville, where the company “raises” nearly 600,000 barrels per year, all used for its own brands. Most of the barrels are used for Jack Daniel’s, but since the company opened a new cooperate in Alabama to exclusively supply the Lynchburg-based brand, more inventory is available for other spirits like Herradura, El Jimador, Old Forester and Woodford Reserve.

Chad Ruch, the production manager at the cooperage, walked our group through the process of making a barrel, all the way from drying the staves outdoors to the finished product rolling down the line onto a truck making its way to one of the company’s distilleries.

Visiting with Woodford

Later at the Woodford Reserve distillery in Versailles, Kentucky, Master Distiller Chris Morris showed off the brand’s new visitor center. The distillery site was originally built by Oscar Pepper in the 1830s. Later, his son James sold the Old Crow brand his family created to Brown-Forman in 1941. The distillery was sold in the 1950s, but the company bought it back in the 1990s to serve as a homeplace for Woodford Reserve.

“When we opened the visitor center in 1996 it was designed for 80,000 people,” Morris says. “Once we reached 130,000, (which doesn’t include minors, since they only count the number of samples given out at the end of the tour) we felt it was time to renovate the building and expand.”

Morris also explained that Woodford Reserve was designed with five distinct flavor sources – grain, water, fermentation, distillation and aging. Woodford Reserve is created using a specific combination of these variables, and each variant of the whiskey (including the annual Master’s Collection offerings) changes one or more of them to impact the whiskey’s taste profile.

“The flavor profile behind Woodford Reserve really helped us climb the mountain in the beginning,” Morris says. “No one needed a new Bourbon in 1996, since the category wasn’t that popular at the time.”

Since that debut, the brand has introduced Double Oaked, which Morris calls a special occasion Bourbon designed for dessert, and Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey, which was released earlier this year.

“The rye whiskey category was 90,000 cases, mostly from big distilleries when we started developing our rye,” Morris says. “We were aiming for 10 percent of the market at that time. 
By the fourth year of our aging process the category started to grow and we 
realized we wouldn’t have enough – now we can’t even cover the market demand from a handful 
of cities with developed bartending cultures.”

Creating a non-Bourbon whiskey is a departure for Woodford, but Morris explains “the charter we created early on for Woodford Reserve says we’ll be an innovative whiskey distillery. Nowhere does it say we’ll be a Bourbon distillery.”

Tasting the Flavor

Because flavor is so important to the brand, local 
restaurant owner Ouita Michel serves as the Chef-in-Residence and often creates “flavor wheels,” which pair a variety of foods with the whiskey to highlight its flavor characteristics.

She created a lunch menu based on the flavor profile of the new Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey (see sidebar for the full line-up of pairings). During the tasting, our group also sampled un-aged Bourbon Reserve, un-aged Rye, aged Bourbon and Double Oaked.

Among the chefs who have visited the distillery in Versailles, participated in tastings and 
chosen barrels to take home are Emeril Lagasse, Guy Fieri, Wolfgang Puck and Julia Child (who also created a Woodford-based dessert).

Spotlight QA: Avion Tequila

I recently spoke with Ken Austin, the founder of Tequila Avión, who created the brand after seeing what he called an opportunity in the super-premium tequila market. Austin’s spirit-industry career highlights include time at E&J Gallo Winery and Seagram Beverage Company. He also held executive positions at Marquis Jet, which in 2010 became a subsidiary of NetJets, itself a subsidiary of Warren Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway.

JN: What is Avión’s biggest differentiator?

The premise for me in starting the brand was, I’d gotten to a point in my life where I wanted to pursue a dream. So I went to Mexico and began 
working on something – a new tequila – where first and foremost it was about the liquid in the bottle. That became Avión. Everybody says they have a quality product, but sometimes the most successful brands are about the marketing, not the liquid.

For me, it’s about what’s in the bottle. I really wanted consumers to experience a certain taste profile, which goes back to the agave we use, the way we cook it, the way we handle the heads and tails during distillation and how we filter it. All those things make Avión special.

JN: What was most rewarding for you about building this brand?

I had lunch with someone today who asked me what it’s like to be on menus and the backbars at so many restaurants in New York, and I said it’s amazing and rewarding when you go places outside of major markets and they know the brand. Today, we’re a six-figure brand and it’s incredibly rewarding that people know and respect Avión.

JN: What are the biggest trends in the tequila category impacting Avión right now, and how are you reacting to them?

To me, tequila is in its infancy. It’s very big in the U.S. and Mexico, but it hasn’t really hit the world stage the way it will, so there’s a massive opportunity globally. If the margarita is the number-one cocktail in America, why shouldn’t it be the number-one in the world? I’m seeing the gold rush right now in tequila – everyone has identified that it’s going to grow, especially in premium, and everyone wants to play there because the prize is so big. It’s a category that’s really booming with Millennials, much like whiskey.

Like with any business, there will be a shakeout, but right now there’s a rush to market as everyone positions themselves. I feel amazing about our prospects because, while Pernod Ricard owns a majority of the company, the lunatics are still running the asylum. Ownership wants the entrepreneurs running this company because the brand has an entrepreneurial spirit. We eat, drink and sleep tequila.

JN: Speaking of Pernod Ricard, what’s changed in the past year since that company gained a majority stake in Avión?

Not a lot. What happened is what we hoped would happen – the level of passion they have for the brand is now even higher than before. A guy like me loves when people put skin in the game (which they did by writing a very large check) because failure isn’t an option. As Beyonce would say, they put a ring on it, and now it’s “‘til death do we part.”

Alex Ricard is a good friend and he’s incredibly committed to the brand. We both want to reach a million cases, and we don’t want to wait 20 years to get there. Pernod ricard is a very level-headed company – they have a long-term view and want to be number one, but they want to do things the right way to get there.

JN: What’s next on the horizon for the brand?

I was at the distillery recently, since I taste every batch before its bottled, and I can say we’re working on some very innovative things. When we look at a new product it has to be different from what’s already on the market – I don’t want Avión to be a me-too brand. It’s really about innovating in ways that make you different from the other guys on the market. I’ve got three or four ideas in the pipeline right now; the only questions are when to act on them, and making sure they’re done right.

Jeremy Nedelka is editor of Beverage Dynamics magazine.

Retail Service: Changing the Fight in Beverage Alcohol

I am in England this week working with a client, and one thing is painfully clear to me as America’s AdultBev consultant: The world is a small place and our place in it is tiny. I am not trying to impart some global wisdom that I have learned, or some passionate message from my travels, but rather the fact that AdultBev retailing is the same here as it is in Des Moines, IA.

I look around and I see trends that I see at home. I look around and I see brands that struggle at home also struggling here at retail. I look around and I see the same retail mistakes that off-premise retailers make in Chicago being made at Knightsbridge Fine Wines or Harrods in London.

I am here with a large, multi-national client that as asked me to look at his retail holdings throughout Europe. He is looking for a retail edge as big, international box is coming from all sides and his gross margin is being hurt by European category killers. Sound familiar?

It should, because it is happening all over the world. Big Box multi-national retailers are coming into your market and making price the only way to compete. That is all fine in fantasy world, but as an independent retailer you have invested in other ways to woo your customer. You probably invested in a nice store experience, or knowledgeable help or a really cool CRM program.

Here is the reality of the US retail landscape. I went to London to affirm it.

Walking through Harrods yesterday, I noticed control label wine. I saw cabernet, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. What is the big deal, you ask? The big deal is that if you do not know Harrods, please understand that they generate over 1B Sterling Pound in gross sales, (roughly 2B dollars converted in US dollars).

They have fully embraced the private label wine movement. They have invested in it, sell it, market it and spend effort in promoting it.

In our own country we are still slow to embrace the PL movement. As retailers we fall in love with labels, reviews and national ad campaigns. We need to remember that all of those things are not meant for the little retailer, but for large chains and grocery. The little guy is left to fend for himself and find new and innovative ways to compete on pricing. Enter private label wines!

When considering a PL wine program for your off-premise store, it is important to remember three things:

■ The average wine consumer only knows ten labels of wine. That said, to them, 90 percent of the other wine can be or is PL wines.

■ Any investment in a PL wine program comes with risk. The wines need to be hand sold. A big investment while might be good on short term GM% gain might be bad for cash flow, so have an exit and mark down plan.

■ Tastings and more tastings! Selling wine that no one has heard of needs sampling. Nearly 87 percent of tasted wine at market level will have sell-through.

The wine-selling and retail world is changing, and the only way for the independents, some chains, regional players and grocers to compete is to sell PL wines. Have a plan, have a strategy and have an exit. If you follow these simple guidelines, you should be on your way to a higher blended gross margin.